Part 4 – Closet Island progress – How to build drawers on the easiest way (and on the news you have been waiting for)

First I wanted to show you that I made a little design change. I originally planned to put four drawers into each section. This was the plan for the side that faces the hanging side of the closet …

And then I planned on the side that faces the jewelry/mirror side of the closet, with four drawers on the left and the cupboards on the right side.

So I decided to make the two sections lower on the hanging side of the clothes and have only three drawers in each section. The boxes themselves are 8.5 inches high, but there will be more space as soon as the drawer progresses. The drawer fronts on these will be about 9.25 inches high. Of course, drawer boxes do not sit directly on top of each other in a chest of drawers or a closet. This is how these drawer boxes look …

And so you look in the section, which has drawers on both sides. I made it as big as possible while I left a fraction of a centimeter between them where the back meets.

But on the side that opposes the cupboard’s jewelry/mirror side, I decided to keep four drawers. The lower one is a deep drawer and the other three are flatter. Obviously they are not yet installed, and again drawer boxes are not stacked in such a way when they are installed. As soon as they are installed and the drawer fronts are switched on, there will be space.

First of all, I strongly recommend using staples instead of nails to put together a drawer box like this. My drawer boxes are made of 1/2-inch plywood, so I used these 1-inch times of crown hip. (Please forgive my messy wood fingers.)

For them you need a narrow crown wet that looks like a nail gun. I got this Porter Cable Crown Crown Heftle Gun at home depot. I generally use it for upholstery projects, but it is also ideal for projects like these simple drawer boxes.

As I showed you yesterday, I cut these five parts for each drawer box. The lower piece is cut to the finished length and width of the drawer box minus one inch in every direction. If I want my finished drawer box 35 “X 14”, the lower piece is cut to 34 “X 13”. The front and back pieces become the same width as the lower piece (34 inches) and the height I want that this drawer should be (this is 4.5 inches). And the sides are cut to the finished size of the drawer box (14 inches) and the height of the drawer box (4.5 inches).

I used my table saw to tore the plywood onto the right width, and then used my miter saw to cut them onto the exact lengths that I needed.

The compilation of this is as simple as the front and back pieces on the lower piece and then the ends to springs. It really can’t be much easier. You can see here that I have used nine staple foods to book the front and back pieces on the lower piece (the drawer box is obviously turned upside down). The advantage of the use of booklet clips is that these nine issue clips are pretty much the equivalent of 18 nails. I have about 4.5 inches from each other.

As soon as the front and back was attached to the lower piece, I attached the ends and booklets on all three sides.

Here is a look at it from below. I became a bit aggressive with the grinder in this piece.

However, you can see that the side pieces on each side extend beyond the lower piece beyond the edges of the front and back pieces.

Booking brackets generally go cleaner than nails, and they have no tendency to bend when they go in and come from the side of the wood, as is often the case. But sometimes they take a chip out of the plywood, as you can see here. But that’s nothing that does not repair a bit of wood filler.

And that’s it. It is really the simplest type of drawer box to build, and since it is put together with booklings, it is very robust. I do not know that I would recommend this very fundamental type of drawer box for a kitchen or another room that receives a lot of traffic and uses every day. I would probably recommend another mounting method for this. But for something like this chest of drawers, I personally think that they work perfectly.

And as soon as it is assembled, I fill the basic holes on the sides with wood filler and then loop the whole thing, especially sure that all joints in which the parts come together, as well as the upper edges of the drawer box and the corners to which they meet are all sanded.

You can also cover the upper edges of the drawer box with iron-on edge gang to give it a really nice, clean, finished look that I will probably do on it.

Do you accidentally remember, remember this wallpaper that I designed in the studio bathroom? Obviously, I will not use it there now because it plans to transform this bathroom into a walk -in pantry. So I am thinking about using it to either line my drawers or only use color on the sides of the drawers for a funny piece of color when the drawers are open.

The colors are not perfect for this room. The wallpaper contains a lot of purple and no dark blue. But is it really important? It is not displayed in the room unless I open a drawer, so the color is really only for fun and only for my pleasure if I open a drawer.