I spent the whole weekend to end the lighting in my walk -in closet. This turned out that it was a much more committed process than I originally thought, but the payment is pretty amazing !! In the end I had to crawl into the attic about ten times to finish everything, but it’s done!
Last Thursday I shared the first part of this lighting installation process when I cut the holes for the new Slim Canless LED downlights that I wanted to install. I shared this process in the post last Friday. I love these lights because they are only 1/2-inch thick. And since you do not contain this large living space that extends into the attic, as the old school exchange lighting does, you can install it practically anywhere, including directly under a ceiling bar.
I like the Halo brand, but there are several brands from Canless Led downlights to choose from. And I always buy those who have different light/temperature settings because I would like to adjust mine to daylight (5000k) so that my colors are not distorted. This is how the lights look.
And as soon as you have cut the hole in the dry wall, the light in this hole with these two metal spring clips (the orange tabs) is kept in place.
Each light is supplied with this metal housing for the wires. After removing one of the round metal -knockout holes in the housing, I added a wire clamp to the hole (which I had to buy separately). And after I stripped the yellow plastic coat out of the wires and then stripped about 5/8 inches from the ends of the black and white wires, I stuck the wires through the wire clamp into the housing.
And then I separated the wires so that the black wires were together, the white wires were together and the mere copper wires were together. I have two of each of the ceiling because a wire comes from the medium -sized light (i.e. the original light in this room) to feed this light electricity, and the other wire runs from this light to supply the next canless light with electricity.
If you only install a single canless light in a room, you only have a wire from the ceiling. I installed seven canless lights, all of which chained together, so that each light had two wires from the ceiling, with the exception of the very last (seventh) light in the chain.
Then I used a wire mother to attach all black wires together (three black wires – the black wire in the Canless Light Housing Plus the two wires standing from the ceiling). After I could be as tight as possible, I gave a little bit on the smaller black wire that came from the Canless light housing to ensure that it is safe. Sometimes these smaller wires are not safely turned into the wire nut when wiring with two 12-gauge wires. When it pulls out with a light tractor, I know that I have to remove the wire nut and try again until it is safe. I repeated this process for the white wires and the bare copper wires.
I always use electrical adhesive tape around the wires and the wire nut on the white and black wires.
And then I carefully stuck all wires in the housing and put the cover on the housing.
I put the housing on the loft on the dry wall and put the light back on. Then I was ready to push these two metal plugs into the hole to attach the light to the ceiling.
How to repair a hole in drywall wall
If they remember, I had to cut three additional holes in the dry wall so that I could bring the wires to where they had to go in this area of the room in which the roof was too low to do the cabling from the attic. I also moved the center light over about six inches. So that meant that I had four holes that had to be repaired in the ceiling drying.
These holes had a diameter of six inches, so I cut a piece of scrap to 10 inches for every hole that I had to repair. You can use any scrap wood for this.
I put it in the hole so that it spans the middle of the hole and crossed two inches over the hole on each side.
And then I secured this with two drying screw screws.
This piece of wood gave me something to screw the middle drywall. Fortunately, I didn’t have to cut new drywall construction. I had saved the round pieces that I had to cut out of the dry wall, so I only used them. But if you repair a random hole in your dry stone wall, simply cut the hole in the dry wall so that it is a very neat circle or a very neat rectangle and then a new piece of dywall fit into this circle or rectangle.
Then I used this 10-inch drying mud meter …
And I spread a pre -mixed dry building flame over and around the area I wanted to repair.
I put four strips of dry wall in this wet mud to completely cover the edges of the circle, as well as the screw holes from screwing the piece of wood in position …
And then I used the drywall knob to smooth and remove the entire excess mud.
I let the repaired holes dry like them for a few hours while I installed the lights.
When I was finished to install the lights, the drywall lamb was dry in these repaired areas, so I went back over you with another layer of dry bush lamb to cover the tape. I still have to grind these areas smoothly, but as soon as he is sanded, I think someone ever gives more holes.
I also exchanged the original switch for a dimmer switch and then added a separate switch for the walls.
In order to operate this new wire for the wall lights, I had to cut another hole into the top of the wall to carry out the wires. When I first tried to feed the new wire from the attic, there was a random piece of wood in the way in the wall that did not let the wire go through. So I had to cut the hole in the wall to get this villain wood (it was a random piece of shipap that had broken off and blocked the hole) to make room for the new wire out of the lights to get from the attic. So now I still have to do a drywall repair.
All of this took a lot of time, but just take a look at the payment! I have gone from a dark light to this room so far!
I also installed the center of the crown, but I haven’t paid much attention to it at the moment. This light will get a fairly large revision, so that it doesn’t look like this when it is finished. And of course it will hang over the middle island that I still have to build.
The wall candlesticks are on a separate dimmer switch so that I can keep these lights as night light if I want. The whole lighting is managed so that you do not use much electricity at all.
But you. Seriously. Take a look at all this light!
So it used to look light on the ceiling fan with this one terrible.
And that’s how it looks …
Do you see how the old light looks so grubby the color of the cupboards?
So I like daylight bulbs! I cannot stand for the lighting so that my pretty colors look grubby. So there is no grubby color in this room.
And I just love these little flower lights.
I originally planned to wire all lights with a light switch. I am so glad that I took the trouble to put these lights on a separate switch.
Anyway, I can mark another project from my list. And that was a pretty big project!
What an amazing difference makes good lighting!
Here is a look at the before …
And here is the amazing thing with all the new lighting …
Next … the floors! I can’t wait to take this dark spot off the floors and see what difference the lighter, lighter soils will make here and in the rest of the bedroom suite. I hope I can get to grind today, but I have a little cleaning up before I can rent and start grinding the grinder. We’ll see how it works!
